31st October 2016

Where has autumn gone? Where are the frosts, the wind, the falling leaves?

True, I have collected enough to fill one bin and, yes, some of the trees in the garden are changing colour, but most remain green and lively. Daytime temperatures seem fixed around 15 degrees, and at night, I have yet to see it drop below 9. Will I ever get any use out of my thermals?

Since returning from Jersey, I have halted the fermentation of my wine at 1.10 sg and racked it into fresh demi-johns. It’s going to be a meagre harvest this year, but it tastes and looks as though it might yield a decent wine. Only time will tell.

Early on the 25th of October, Sue and I travelled down the A14 to the Dragonfly Hotel in Bury St Edmunds. Sue had never been to this ancient town and, although I have on many occasions, it was only ever to run around on the green turf of its rugby club before heading home. This time, we planned to spend three days immersing ourselves in the town’s rich history.

Our luck with check-in held, and reception handed us the key to our room straight away. After a coffee, we set off on the 15-minute walk into town along a pathway that crossed over the lovely River Lark, a tributary of the Great Ouse.

We had done some research beforehand, and I had printed off an excellent historical town walk. It guided us past all the key landmarks, providing detailed descriptions of their significance. Our first stop was the Abbey of St Edmunds, a truly beautiful place to while away a few hours. Many of the locals were doing just that, basking in the warm midday sun. Finding a bench with a view, we sat and ate our packed lunch, watching other picnickers share their fare with a horde of very tame squirrels and pigeons. As obvious out-of-towners, we were left undisturbed by the urban wildlife and enjoyed our sandwiches without interruption.

Our route led us out of the Abbey and onto the grounds of St Mary’s Church, where Mary Tudor, Queen of France, lies buried. Many of the walls and houses we passed had been built using stone from the abbey after its dissolution. The Charnel House was particularly striking, holding the bones and relics of past citizens. Plaques and gravestones hinted at countless poignant stories, one told of an eight-year-old girl killed by lightning in the 15th century. The engraved words and poetry were deeply moving; you could feel the anguish of her parents as they declared her soul pure and God-fearing, forever in her prayers. I wonder if they feared she had been punished from above for reasons we will never know.

We came across the Theatre Royal, where we booked tickets to see ‘A Princess Undone’ starring Stephanie Beecham. Across the road stood the Greene King Brewery Visitor Centre, and we arranged a tour for the following morning.

The next part of our walk led us into the heart of the town, weaving through narrow alleys and along cobbled streets. We paused frequently to consult our booklet and read the many wall plaques that guided us. Reaching the town centre, we took a break at the reputed smallest pub in the UK, The Nutshell. Over refreshments, we chatted with regulars eager to hear our story. The pub’s intimacy made for a convivial atmosphere, enhanced by the proximity of fellow drinkers. It’s well worth a visit if you’re in the area, if not for the beer, then certainly to glimpse the mummified cat hanging from the bar, a macabre yet curious sight.

Continuing through the Town Square, we arrived at Moyse’s Hall, now a museum, before returning to the start via the Butter Market and The Angel Hotel. It was here, in Room 15, that Dickens penned part of ‘The Pickwick Papers’. I imagine that room is a popular one for guests. Just outside the hotel stands the country’s first illuminated road sign, shaped like a lighthouse and locally known as the ‘Pillar of Salt’, a charmingly novel landmark.

That evening, we dined at the hotel before heading to one of the town’s three cinemas to see ‘Woman on a Train‘. The film was reasonable, though it left us feeling it could have been executed better.

The next morning, after breakfast, we strolled into town once more to join a brewery tour. Alongside ten others, we were eager to learn about the brewing process, and perhaps sample a few pints. The tour began at 11 am and stretched well beyond 1 pm by the time Sue and I departed. Our guide, a spirited Scotswoman, was not only knowledgeable but possessed a delightful sense of humour.

We followed the brewing process level by level until we reached the roof, where water from underground aquifers is stored. The views over the town from this vantage point were spectacular. Returning to the ground floor, we sampled the brewery’s offerings, of which there were many. Among our group were two publicans from Edinburgh, crowned Publicans of the Year in 2016. They had ventured south for a holiday. I must confess that Sue sampled more beers than I. She has yet to master the art of slowly savouring each brew to appreciate the craftsmanship behind each unique flavour, but I trust it will come with time and a few more tours.

Next, we indulged in a bit of shopping. In the Market Square, I came across a rather novel weather vane, an owl, wearing a mortarboard, reading a book. Naturally, I bought it. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped by the Brewery once more to purchase a hessian bag containing eight different beers, before enjoying a light lunch.

Around 5:30 pm, we strolled into town again for our evening meal at the Dog and Partridge, just a short walk from the theatre where we were to enjoy our evening entertainment. The Theatre Royal’s auditorium, restored and decorated to its original splendour, was a true delight to behold.

‘A Princess Undone‘ is a fanciful play centred on Princess Margaret and the burning of private letters. Sue, ever the Royalist and something of an expert on the Royal Family (as it seemed, were most of the audience), caught all the subtle references and nuances in the script. Most of them went straight over my head, and for once, Sue had to whisper explanations to me. I remain unconvinced; nothing I saw or heard changed my belief that the Royals are a personal drain on my taxes. In my view, they should be made to find proper jobs and pay their own way.

Though we weren’t required to check out of our hotel until 2 pm the following day, we decided to leave around 10 am after breakfast, eager to visit West Stow Anglo-Saxon Village.

The drive to West Stow was brief, and after paying the concessionary entrance fee, we explored the site. We began with the two indoor museums before wandering around the various outdoor structures. The village offers a vivid insight into life during the Anglo-Saxon period, and it achieves this brilliantly. The exhibits are plentiful, thoughtfully arranged, and easy to engage with. It struck me as an ideal place to bring a school party, educational and immersive in equal measure.

After enjoying hot chocolate in the café, we set off along the Beowulf Trail. The trail weaves through the stunning Thetford Forest, telling the tale of Beowulf and Grendel through sculptures and information boards. It was a delightful way to spend the afternoon, ambling through the woods as the story gradually unfolded.

On our journey home, we stopped briefly in Rothwell for coffee with Charlotte.

The following day, Charlotte and the boys came to Willow Bank for ‘Minty’ burgers. Jamie couldn’t join us; he was the ‘best man’ at his old school friend Michael Hobbs’ wedding in Daventry. We later learnt that his speech went down well, and I think he was pleased to have learnt it by heart, avoiding the need to fumble with notes. I’d read his script beforehand and suspected it would be well received; it had just the right balance of humour and sentiment.

Before our trip to Jersey, I emailed Joan and Phil, who live in Marche, Italy. A recent earthquake had struck the region, causing many fatalities. Thankfully, they were unharmed, experiencing only minor tremors and rattles. However, Marche was hit by a more severe earthquake yesterday. I’ve sent another email, but have yet to hear back. Fingers crossed that all is well.

Sarah recently had the chance to drive a rather impressive car during a work event. I’ve included the photo, mainly for the car!